Sumatra is one of Indonesia’s largest islands and the sixth-largest island in the world. Wild and rugged, it is a place of extremes—rich in natural wealth, yet prone to natural disasters. Volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, tsunamis, and landslides are all common here. At the same time, it harbors one of the richest ecosystems on Earth. I traveled in Aceh, Indonesia’s westernmost province, which became world-famous overnight after the 2004 “Boxing Day tsunami.” Aceh is the country’s most socially and religiously conservative province, and the only one governed by Islamic Sharia law. It is also one of the last places where the critically endangered Sumatran orangutan can still be found in the wild. Seeing this magnificent creature in its natural habitat was my main goal. I will never forget the first time I observed a mother with her young baby—it was a defining moment. The sight takes your breath away and leaves you speechless